The issue, and I thought it was going to be an issue, was the bulk at the intersection of the collar. My fabric being scuba knit was rather thick and I was treating it as if it was a ponte knit. After you attach the collar, you then attach a front and back facing. So at that intersection you now have a thickness of the back fabric, two layers of collar fabric, plus facing. Nowhere in the instructions does it say to trim out this area. I however did trim out the thickness of the collar and the facings, before understitching the collar and interfacing, per instructions and my usual practice.. However there was still quite a bit of bulk in the area where the zipper was going to be. The instructions advises you after installing the invisible zipper to trim out the area under the zipper at the facing and collar. I did all of that.
Sewing the zipper in that area was not a problem. However when I went to pull up the zipper I could not get it to go past that area. I trimmed some more; and pressed, pressed and pressed. I used my handy clapper hoping to compress that thickness some more. That helped some. I then pulled the zipper tab.
And that is when the zipper split!!
I was extremely unhappy about this outcome. Part of the problem is the fabric. I have some other scuba knit fabric in my stash that is not as thick as this. In sewing the darts, the dart point does not stay pressed well so you have that dreaded poof at the end of the dart. The other interesting thing about working with this fabric is that the blue faded onto my fingernails creating dark tips. This was a nagging clue about the quality of this fabric and whether in wearing it would fade on my undergarments.
So I am now trying to treat this as something learned as part of this sewing project. Because of numerous life situations going on around me, the failure of this project is very frustrating.
As I type this blog post, I find it cathartic in letting this one thing go and to think about moving on to my next project. More updates to follow.
Oh my. but you have a good attitude about it! I've never sewn with scuba knit, or Liverpool, brushed poly, techno knit, etc., because they're all too warm for Florida. Blue dye on your fingertips! that's scary, maybe your broken zipper really saved you from something worse.
ReplyDeleteI think you have a point there. This was not a good scuba knit, but I loved the shade of blue and hoped it would work.
DeleteOh no, what a shame! And so frustrating! If you were looking for possible new closure solutions,
ReplyDeleteI could probably come up with a couple, but it sounds like you're ready to move on so I'll just wish you some more peaceful sewing time soon with a better outcome!
I want to try this pattern again in a lighter fabric. However there will still be bulk in that area. I think there has got to be a better way of inserting the zipper and attaching the collar to reduce bulk. I am one of those people who will sleep on the idea and come up with a solution for the next version, some day!
DeleteHow annoying! Blue dye on your fingers is a warning call for me, like Coco said, maybe you had a lucky accident.
ReplyDeleteI think Coco was right!
DeleteUgh. Sorry :/ I agree that this is a wadder...time to move on to the next thing.
ReplyDeleteSo many ideas, so little time! I am ready to move on.
DeleteSorry to see this turned out for the worst, but I'm encouraged by your perspective and learning experience. Will be looking out for the next piece!
ReplyDeleteI hate the outcome also; I am ready to try some other garments on my long list of items to make.
DeleteI'm so sorry that happened to you! Here's wishing you the best on your next project.
ReplyDeleteI think we all come up against something like this from time to time. On to the next project.
DeleteBeautiful fabric. :D
ReplyDeleteIt was pretty fabric, but the dye kept coming off on my fingers while sewing. I am not that devastated that this did not work out!
DeleteI find that when I use Coats & Clarks invisible zips they tend to split when there is any bulk at a seam such as your collar area (also waists joining bodices and skirts). I've started ordering and using YKK zips and find these much more reliable. The C&C have split far too many times so I've given up on them.
ReplyDeleteI find that when I use Coats & Clarks invisible zips they tend to split when there is any bulk at a seam such as your collar area (also waists joining bodices and skirts). I've started ordering and using YKK zips and find these much more reliable. The C&C have split far too many times so I've given up on them.
ReplyDelete