Sewing Resolutions???

I am not good with resolutions so normally don't make any. There is a thread going on at Artisans Square about sewing resolutions. I posted some goals there. So thought I would post them here with some additions.

1. Make at least two items from BWOF patterns.
2. Update information regarding my patterns and fabrics in Stitch and Stash Program. Started it last year and then has been hit and miss.
3. Reacquaint myself with Pattern Master Boutique and buy the upgrade.
4. Sew up some of my fabric in my collection before buying more.
5. Refrain from buying so many patterns just because they are on sale for $.99 to $4.99; I am a patternaholic also. This one is going to be tough as I just saw two patterns posted on Flickr that I am already coveting.
6. Re-measure and record new measurements to help with selecting the right size pattern for sewing, particularly for skirts and pants.
7. Do something sewing related at least 3 days out of 7 each week.
8. Make a pair of pants with fly front zipper.
   

Happy New Year Ya'll

Sewing today

I went into work this AM as I agreed to change my schedule to attend a meeting. One of the meeting participants called in ill so I worked a half day and took the other half off as vacation.

DH and I went to eat a late lunch. When we returned I started working on my skirt. I attached the lining and attached the skirt facing. I just read an article in the December Sew News by Linda Lee on using facings and attaching them in a way that it looks like a bias binding at the waistline. I almost decided to do that with this skirt but decided to postpone that for another day and another version.

I attached the lining to the zipper by hand sewing. All that is left to do is hem the skirt and the lining and attach a hook and eye above the zipper. Yeah!!!!

Tomorrow will be another sewing day. I am already thinking about my next two or three projects. I want to make another jacket, different style that I will also wear with this skirt. I have several knit fabrics that will go with this skirt as well as some other skirts/pants in my wardrobe and want to work on cutting those out. Lot of sewing ideas going on!

Two new to me vintage patterns.

I have been working on cataloging patterns using Stitch and Stash software. This is an ongoing challenge. Thought I would show you a few photos of two Vintage patterns that I have not posted about here.

Vintage Vogue 6758
Vintage Vogue 6487

What size am I?

Now I remember why I purchased Pattern Master Boutique and why I might should reacquaint myself with it. I say this because Dang! if I know what skirt size pattern to use anymore. Skirts made earlier this year ranged in size from 14-18 depending on style.

Vogue patterns use to run small on me; so went with Size 16/18 for my current skirt project. I added to all pieces at the waist line due to finished pattern measurement and difference in mine. As I sewed each front and side front along with back and side back pieces, I sewed the same pieces for the lining fabric as well.

I then sewed the side seams of the lining to use it for any fitting adjustments. I thought when I looked at it that it looked a little large but I have surprised myself before and found the fit to be perfect or snug. Let me say this was huge! Thus I began the re-fitting process.

I took 3/4 inch side seams, this helped but still large. I then decided that the front pieces needed to be taken in as the back was looking okay. With a swayback and hip fluff below waist line in the back, my usual adjustments require me to add length at back hip to side seams and to reduce the center back by 1/2 inch. It looks odd but using FFRP techniques this is what I have been doing for years with great success. I thought if I took up the back seams I would have puckers. I ended up taking an extra 5/8" through the front/side front pieces. This did the trick.

I used flat pattern measuring for this skirt which is different for me, as I normally do pattern fitting per FFRP. Using the measuring method and relying on finished size printed on envelope, I added 1/4 inch to all seams at waist line, tapering to size 18 at hip. I also used the petite markings to reduce length from waist to hip. That worked well. I could have shortened the length more though; I will take an extra 1/2 inch at hem.

To conclude all that extra added at waist line proved to be unnecessary. I am glad that I erred on the side of having to take deeper seams, as I am most unhappy when things are too tight and don't have enough "wiggle" room to adjust seam allowances.

Let me add also that I have been going to CURVES rather faithfully for two years now. I have dropped a size in skirts and pants as a result. I really must incorporate this into my skirt sewing now. I have in the past made skirts that were just too ill fitting as they were too tight. I did not have this with PMB patterns as long as I kept the measurements current in that program.

I used an invisible zipper on this skirt. Of course, I sewed it incorrectly two times!!!! Third time was a charm. My hope that the skirt would be complete before returning to work tomorrow will not be. I needed to take a break from sewing as I needed to do some "work" at home before returning to work tomorrow for one day of work to be off again for one day. This will become my first completed project for 2008!

Sewing for Dec 28'07

Today was shopping day for household items as well as groceries. The only sewing done was late afternoon and I continued to work on my black skirt. I sewed the back and side back pieces this afternoon. I am making Vogue 7937, View B with the back slits and tabs on the front. I have to tell you I am really liking the fabric I am working with. It is a black wool gabardine I purchased from Fabric Mart about three years ago. It is such a pleasure to work with this fabric. It sews up well and though it ravels some, not excessively.

Shot of front piece with tabs attached.










The skirt does not have a lining. I cut one using the fabric pieces and reducing their length. This is a black lining I purchased earlier this year from Schoolhouse Fabrics in Floyd, VA. about 45 minute drive from my home. They have the best assortment of colors from which to choose.

Sewing this skirt has taken me away somewhat from completing the jacket, and I really needed a small break. I did purchase shoulder pads today for the jacket ,as well as black coat/jacket hook and eyes. I continued to work on weaving the trim to complete enough to sew around all the edges prior to shopping today.

Vogue7975 in progress

Vogue7975 in progress
Originally uploaded by Danvillegirl

Bowing here at the front. You can click on the title under the photo to be taken to flickr where you can read my additional comments.

Vogue7975sideview copy

Vogue7975sideview copy
Originally uploaded by Danvillegirl

Concerns about fit. Puckering here. Even when pulled together at front as if worn closed, I get some of this. Probably due to various reasons. Shoulder pads help pull this out so will be using them.

Trim on V7975

Trim on V7975
Originally uploaded by Danvillegirl

Another view of the yarn pinned to the front to see how this will look.

Trim at neck

Trim at neck
Originally uploaded by Danvillegirl

As promised, here is the trim pinned to the neckline. There is a glimmer of gold/copper in the trim as one of the yarns I am using has this color in it. I am using black and white eyelash yarn, a black/white/gray yarn, black and a white plain yarn. There are a total of seven yarns woven together using the Diva Cordmaker.

Vacation Sewing

I hope everyone had a great Christmas. Our day was very uneventful, as we planned. We visited family on Christmas Eve as DH had to work today so he wanted a restful Christmas day. I spent a little time sewing yesterday afternoon but mainly we "grazed" all day and had oyster stew for Christmas dinner.

Today I had a fantastic sewing day. I had the house to myself and I had no intentions to go anywhere but to feed the neighbor's cats and go to CURVES. I spent almost 2.5 hours sewing on my jacket with no real time consuming interuptions. It was bliss!!! Yesterday I quilted the sleeves of the jackets. Today I sewed them together, attached to the jacket and then stitched a bias strip around the armsyce to give a more polished looked to the sleeve seams.

I need to attach shoulder pads. I am comtemplating using removeable shoulder pads but this jacket really needs shoulder pads. The last thing needed to complete the jacket is the trim. I made the trim for this jacket and need a little more to be able to attach around all the edges of the jacket. I also need to attach the chain at the hemline. I want this jacket to be completed ASAP.

The other sewing I did was to start on the Vogue skirt. I am using a black wool gaberdine fabric that I purchased from Fabric Mart about three years ago. This is really good quality fabric. I interfaced the skirt facings and the tabs for view B. After interfacing the tabs, I stitched the two tab fabric pieces together. I then basted to the side front pieces and attached those to the center front. That is where I ended my sewing for today. I took some photos today of the two projects and will post my work in progress later.

I have a hair and manicure appointment late morning tomorrow so hope to sew some before going to these appointments.

Merry Christmas

Sewing????

Not much sewing going on today. I spent most of the day cooking. We are visiting family and friends tomorrow so decided to cook my Christmas meal today so we will have leftovers tomorrow night when we return from Danville. Christmas day will be leftovers and oyster stew for dinner.

I did work on the jacket sleeves last night. I sewed one side of the upper sleeve to the under sleeve. The other sleeve is pinned and ready to sew. I will then sew the sleeve linings in the same manner. The lining will be attached to fabric sleeve by stitching at hem line and turning up. Then I will quilt it. I still have trim to complete. The end is in sight.

Response to comments on sleeveless dress

Laura said...
Thanks for this video. Does the lining fabric just stay unfinished around the zipper, then?

No not really. I hand stitched the lining to the zipper. As one of the final steps in the dress completion. You could, I think, topstitch the pressed in seam allowance for the lining and let it hang loose. You could attach the lining fabric to the zipper by machine only I have yet to get one to lay correctly. I scanned in a portion of the instructions from the Vogue pattern that addresses attaching the lining to the zipper that may help answer your question.

Carolyn wrote--That was very kewl! My question about the insertion is that you are now inserting the zipper into a finished garment with all of that fabric...my pet peeve. I love flat insertions of anything whenever possible because I seem to have more control over the process. But that was a very interesting take on inserting a lining into a sleeveless garment and I have bookmarked this entry for when I'm feeling more adventurous in the future!

Carolyn, I understand your pet peeve. Yet this is still mostly flat as you have not sewn any seams other than the shoulder seams and attached lining to neck and armholes. Side seams have not been stitched. Your next seam to sew is the back seam below where you will insert the zipper. Then insert zipper. You are still working with basically a flat piece. I scanned another part from the Vogue pattern instructions for this step, and for the step following showing how to sew the lining and fabric as one continuous seam. I found this was easy.

I am most curious why these instructions are not used for all Vogue sleeveless dress patterns? I have made two sleeveless dresses using this technique but the instructions for one pattern did not have these directions at all.

Sleeveless dress with lining

Over the past several months there have been postings of sewing dresses, particularly sleeveless dresses with a lining. Some have written how they attach the lining at the armholes and having to sew this part by hand, or having to turn under the seam allowances for the fabric and lining, attempt to line them up and then basically top or edge stitch them together.

Having read through much of Claire Shaeffer's book "High Fashion Secrets..." and Clotilde's "Sew Smart" and actually following instructions from a Vogue pattern ( which by the way was one of the better instructions ever with a Vogue pattern) I have been using a different method with great success. Sorry I don't have the Vogue pattern number readily available as of this writing.

So I have again attempted to put together a little tutorial that I hope will help any one who has struggled with sewing a lining to a sleeveless dress and wanting it to look more like RTW. I think it is less of a struggle. I am still learning how to put together "videos" on my computer and may someday actually add sound. But hope the written messages along with some photos will help. Here is a link http://video.google.com/videoplay?docid=5664121837832228241. I am also going to try to post the video here. Some days it works, some days it doesn't. It may play better on your computer by using the link. I hope you find it helpful. The two books mentioned are very helpful sewing resources and I recommend them.

Visions of sewing all through my head

Yes, I am on Holiday and Vacation!!!!!!!

I of course have great sewing plans which I will probably not get to complete but am going to give it my best shot. My goal is to complete the jacket, make the Vogue skirt and then sew up some knit tops as I have acquired some great knits in the past few months from EOS and Gorgeous Fabrics.

I got most all of my grocery shopping completed tonight with just a few things to pick up tomorrow. And then I am not going anywhere near the grocery store, shopping centers or malls until after Christmas.

I am off to my sewing room now!

Quilted lining

Quilted lining
Originally uploaded by Danvillegirl

This is how the lining looks. I can see how silk charmeuse would be a great choice for this technique. My lining is a polyester which I am "making it work".

The side view

V7975sideview-quilted
Originally uploaded by Danvillegirl

Here is the side view. Subtle stitching seen which I like. I wasn't sure how this was going to look and still it may look even more different after completing sleeves and inserting.

Update on V7975 Jacket

Frontviewquilted
Originally uploaded by Danvillegirl

Here is a view of the front with lining attached and all pieces quilted.

Another Dolly Mama

100_1009
Originally uploaded by Danvillegirl

This embroidery was also put into a picture frame and I am giving this as a gift to one of my staff.

Best Stressed Dolly Mama

Best Stressed Dolly Mama
Originally uploaded by Danvillegirl

Just thought I would show you an embroidered item that I am giving as a Christmas gift to one of my colleagues. I framed this so she can hang on the wall or sit on a shelf in the office.

M&J Trimmings

Yesterday my order from M&J Trimmings arrived. I ordered two gold chains for my jacket. Plus I ordered black fold over trim that I wanted to have in my collection of trims for future projects. I think I will be ordering more of this foldover trim.

I really was uncertain about the size chain I to use for my jacket. I really need to learn/research what size 2mm and 4mm compared to imperial measures. I think I may need larger chain than the 4mm but I will hold off on that decision until I have a chance to see how it works. I didn't discover I had a package until I was ready to go to bed. I was turning on the porch light and saw a package at the storm door. I had not thought about any packages to be arriving yesterday. I opened the box and briefly looked at my new treasures, then fell into bed.

For those of you who have used chains in your jackets or other sewing, drop a comment here to let me know what size chain you used. I appreciate the feedback as I have never used chains before though I know of at least one jacket that I should have. It now belongs to Goodwill or perhaps someone who has now purchased that jacket.

red leather with wrong side folded over

red leather with wrong side folded over
Originally uploaded by Danvillegirl

I folded over one edge to show the contrast of the wrong side to front.

red leather skin

red leather skin
Originally uploaded by Danvillegirl

I received this leather skin earlier this past week. This is a beautiful leather piece and the color red is on the warm side which I prefer. Never sewn with leather. This will be a new challenge. I wish now I had purchased two skins.

I ordered this through Fabric and Notions Yahoo Group.

Jacket Update

The weather is expected to turn wintry today so I am going to get out early this AM to complete some shopping and then come home and continue to work on my jacket.

I interfaced the hem area and then turned up the hem. I pinned the lining to the fabric anticipating to start attaching the lining to the fabric unit by stitching in the ditch of the side seams. I will then quilt the jacket. This is following the January 2006 Threads, "Designer Jacket" article guidelines. I've already varied from them a little and I will post more about that later.

I am making the trim for my jacket so while watching TV with DH the other night I worked on the trim. It is coming together nicely, if I say so myself. See this post to see what I am using to make the trim. I am amazed at the length of the trim at this time. I laid the trim on the jacket front last night and I like how it is looking with the jacket. I will try to take some shots of this later.

Red sweater knit top w/zipper

Red sweater knit top w/zipper
Originally uploaded by Danvillegirl

I wore this to work Friday with black slacks and my new red shoes. I love this top should have gotten someone to take a photo of me wearing it.

It is a red sweater knit top, with rhinestone zipper. It was party day for our consumers.

Shoe Collage

Shoe Collage
Originally uploaded by Danvillegirl

This represents several views of the red shoe. The sole of this shoe is not so pretty but oh so comfortable.

Liz Claiborne gray patent with red buckle

Liz Claiborne gray patent with red buckle
Originally uploaded by Danvillegirl

I bought this pair when I purchased the red shoes. These are comfy also. I wore these to work the other week. They have a slight heel compared to red shoes. They were comfortable to wear. I happened to be in the store at the right time as I got both pair at 30% off! Don't you just love a sale.

Red patent ballet shoes

Red patent ballet shoes
Originally uploaded by Danvillegirl

Thought I would share with you photos of two new pair of shoes I purchased earlier this month. I don't often wear flat shoes, but I like the new trend of flat shoes with certain style pants and jeans. I wore these shoes Friday for first time.

Oh what a pleasure! So comfortable. We had a Christmas party for our consumers and had a DJ for them to dance to. So I got to do some dancing in my new ballet style shoes. These were made for dancing!

Vogue dress

Vogue dress
Originally uploaded by Danvillegirl

I wore my Vogue dress and McCall's jacket to work Monday since the weather was pretty warm again. I got lots of compliments. I realized I had not posted a photo of me wearing the dress since I made it.

I played around with Photoshop Elements to try to erase the background. Still lots to learn about that program. Trying to get rid of the messy background.

Making Progress

Back lining

Jacket is coming along. I made good progress on Saturday and Sunday with the jacket.I decided to use the methods from the Designer Jackets article that was published January 2006 in Threads Magazines. Thought I would post a few photos of my progress.

Lining attached to the front opening.

Basted jacket fabric on Alma Marie. Testing the fit before attaching to lining and quilting. Added 1 inch to side seam allowances, ended up reducing but still allowed for fabric take up with the quilting.

I need more time!

Work this past week was stressful. It always is when things are changing. And it is stressful with the holidays as we prepare for two Christmas events for employees and the consumers we serve. Tomorrow evening is our division's Employee Christmas party and I am the Master of Ceremonies. I love doing that sort of thing but I always feel anxious about it.

With hectic work life and many tasks to do after work, I can't find the time to sew. I am doing bits and pieces to get ready to sew. All patterns are cut out from both the lining and the fabric. I threaded my sewing and serger machines last night in anticipation of sewing today and tomorrow. I am mulling over which should I start first, the jacket or the skirt. I am leaning toward the jacket.

I just got home from CURVES and wanted to post a brief entry to my diary. I also want to have time to read some blogs this weekend. I love reading about what others are up to. More later.

Skirt is cut out

I finished cutting out the skirt fabric early this AM. The skirt does not call for a lining but I am going to use the skirt pattern to cut a lining. I cannot wear wool without one. Besides skirts seem to hang and look better with a lining.

I really love this wool gabardine. It has great body without too much stiffness. I hope to get some sewing time one evening this week. Tonight I have a board meeting to attend and just taking a brief moment to post to my sewing diary.

Later.

Chanel jacket

Well I finished cutting out my Vogue 7975 jacket pattern to make a Chanel like version. I pulled out my two Threads Magazine to re-read the articles on designer jackets and what's inside a Chanel jacket. Several other bloggers have been working on Chanel jackets. I found them to be most inspiring.

In addition to cutting out the jacket pattern, I have adjusted Vogue 7937 to fit and have the fabric ready to cut. This is a skirt pattern that has received positive reviews on PR and has four pieces with varying back views. I am using a black gabardine I purchased from Fabric Mart about two years ago.

This will give you an idea of the skirt and jacket.

This and that for Saturday

I have not been sewing nor posting here. Too much going on to spend time sewing which leaves me disappointed as I cannot get projects going that I have started.

I will be attending our ASG's Christmas party today. I am looking forward to spending some quality time with other members who share the passion of sewing and creating. We will have a fashion show and that will be entertaining. Good food and friendship!

I did receive a package in the mail this week. I ordered some black wool fabric as well as black and brown knit from Gorgeous Fabrics. I truly was pleased with the order but the knit was just drop dead beautiful. Now you may question how black and brown fabric can be beautiful. It was the QUALITY! This knit has the best feel to it, not thick/not thin. Just right. I really can't wait to make this up. Black and brown are such staple colors in my wardrobe. Now if I could only get some gray.

After the party and running around to make a few purchases for Christmas gifts, I will be sewing!!!!!! Got to go take my shower and dress for my party. Later.